Rusty frame Yamaha LS3 |
Brass wire brush wheel |
First parts Yamaha LS3 back to bare metal |
Frame Yamaha LS3 back to bare metal |
Finally all frame parts back to bare metal |
I painted the frame with POR15, and on top of that a tiecoat and Hardnose, a two component coating (also from POR15). POR15 will prevent the frame from rusting again and the Hardnose paint is a tough UV resistant topcoat.The 2 coats of POR15 went on really nice and smooth, almost like a spray paint finish. The Hardnose paint also looks good but in some parts it was a bit too thick so I had to sand it back and repaint it. The trick with these moisture cured paints is to paint as quick as possible without going back to already painted parts. If you go back the paint won't flow very nice anymore, it will dry a bit bubbly and you'll see brush marks. It sounds easy but a frame has so many sides, corners and hard to reach spots that the reality a bit different. Also, don't use the cheapest brush you can find, believe me I've seen the difference in finish and you'll get way better results if you use a brush a bit more expensive.
POR15 paint system with Hardnose |
Frame parts drying after two coats of POR15 |
Frame parts Yamaha LS3 drying after two coats of POR15 |
Frame Yamaha LS3 after two coats of POR15 |
POR15 tiecoat |
Air filter box with POR15 tiecoat |
Frame Yamaha LS3 after two coats of Hardnose |
Tail Yamaha LS3 after two coats of Hardnose |
Swing arm Yamaha LS3 after two coats of Hardnose |
Centrestand Yamaha LS3 after two coats of Hardnose |
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